Portage
Alexandria
Louisiana

Alexandria

Crossroads of Central Louisiana

1805
Founded
1864
Burned
1800
Oldest structure
500K+
WWII troops trained
The oldest standing structure in central Louisiana is a house on land granted under Spanish rule in 1794. Kent Plantation House sits where Pierre Baillio finished building it around 1800, a raised-cottage form — French Creole architecture's answer to heat and floodwater. The house endured because its materials did and because no army needed it for anything. Everything else burned. Alexandria was the center of the Red River Campaign, March through May 1864, the largest Union failure of the Civil War. The river fell below navigable depth and stranded the fleet. Bailey's Dam was engineered to free the gunboats. The campaign moved through the countryside and left what campaigns leave. The Edwin Epps House stands on Bayou Boeuf, where Solomon Northup was enslaved. Samuel Bass, a white carpenter and abolitionist from Canada, was working at Epps's cotton plantation when Northup finally confided in him. Bass got word north. Northup's freedom came from that conversation. The house is on the National Register. The site marks where the risk was taken. Six miles south of Alexandria, Inglewood Plantation Historic District runs ninety-eight acres along the east bank of Bayou Robert. The main house dates to 1836, built on a symmetrical Creole plan — three rooms wide, two deep. The district preserves the antebellum layout on the ground. The architecture is what remained after the war passed through. Before the Louisiana Purchase, before the Spanish held it lightly, before the French claimed it, this was Caddo and Avoyel country. The Tunica-Biloxi nation built ceremonial mounds two thousand years ago at what is now Marksville, a National Historic Landmark. The rapids on the Red River gave Rapides Parish its name — a stretch of shoals that forced travelers to portage. Everything moving between the Gulf Coast and the interior stopped here. The crossing was the reason for the place. William Tecumseh Sherman served as the first superintendent of Louisiana State University when it opened in Pineville in 1860, not Baton Rouge. The original seminary site is where he ran a school before he burned the South.

Long before anyone drew a parish line, this was a crossing. The Caddo and Avoyel peoples used the rapids on the Red River as a natural ford and a trading site. The rapids gave Rapides Parish its name — a stretch of shoals that the river ran fast and shallow over, forcing travelers to portage around them. Everything moving between the Gulf Coast and the interior had to stop here. The Tunica-Biloxi nation, still governing its ancestral territory nearby at Marksville, built ceremonial mounds two thousand years ago…

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The Time Layer
Alexandria then & now
Fort DeRussy State Historic SiteFort DeRussy State Historic Site (historical)
Then
Today
Fort DeRussy State Historic Site
10
Historical photos
0
Ghost landmarks

Landmarks

39 places worth the detour

Hypolite Bordelon House
Architecture·c. 1800·NRHP
Hypolite Bordelon House
5 facts
Fort DeRussy State Historic Site
Military·1862–1864·NRHP
Fort DeRussy State Historic Site
5 facts
Alexandria Museum of Art
Art·1977
Alexandria Museum of Art
5 facts

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Reading

Context before you go
Military
The Louisiana Maneuvers: When Half a Million Soldiers Invaded Central Louisiana

In the summer of 1941, the U.S. Army staged the largest peacetime military exercise in American history across 3,400 square miles of central Louisiana pine forest. Half a million soldiers — including future generals Eisenhower, Patton, and Bradley — tested new armor tactics, air-ground coordination, and supply chain logistics that would define the Allied campaigns in North Africa and Europe. Camp Beauregard and Camp Polk became the nerve centers. The Hotel Bentley served as officers' quarters. Local farmers found tanks parked in their cotton fields. The Maneuvers transformed Alexandria from a quiet river town into a military boomtown overnight, and the infrastructure — roads, airfields, barracks — reshaped the region permanently.

The Louisiana Maneuvers: When Half a Million Soldiers Invaded Central Louisiana
Cultural Heritage
The Tunica-Biloxi: Two Thousand Years in Avoyelles Parish

The Marksville Prehistoric Indian Site — a horseshoe-shaped embankment enclosing burial mounds dating to 50 B.C. — marks the beginning of a continuous indigenous story in Avoyelles Parish. The Tunica-Biloxi Tribe of Louisiana has called this land home for centuries, surviving colonization, displacement, and federal recognition battles. Today the tribe operates the Paragon Casino Resort and maintains the Tunica-Biloxi Cultural & Educational Resources Center. In 2022, stewardship of the Marksville site transferred to the tribe. It is one of the most complete examples of indigenous continuity anywhere in the lower Mississippi Valley.

Nature & Parks
Caroline Dormon and the Fight for Kisatchie

Before Caroline Dormon, Louisiana had no national forest. Born in Saline in 1888, Dormon became the first woman employed by the U.S. Forest Service and spent decades lobbying Congress to protect central Louisiana's longleaf pine ecosystem. Her work led to the creation of Kisatchie National Forest in 1930 — 600,000 acres that today harbor Red-cockaded Woodpecker colonies and the state's most dramatic terrain. Dormon published six books on Louisiana plants and birds, painted botanical watercolors, and designed gardens. The 10.5-mile trail named for her threads through the forest she saved.

Caroline Dormon and the Fight for Kisatchie
Cultural Heritage
Solomon Northup's Bayou Boeuf: The Geography of Twelve Years a Slave

Solomon Northup was a free Black man from New York, kidnapped in 1841 and sold into slavery on the bayous of Avoyelles and Rapides parishes. His ten years of forced labor along Bayou Boeuf produced one of the most important American slave narratives ever written. The Edwin Epps House — now on the LSU Alexandria campus — is the actual structure Northup helped build for the man who enslaved him. The landscape Northup described still exists: the bayou bottoms, the cotton fields, the Creole architecture. Reading the memoir here, against the geography, is a different experience than reading it anywhere else.

Solomon Northup's Bayou Boeuf: The Geography of Twelve Years a Slave
Military
The Burning of Alexandria: May 1864

On May 13, 1864, retreating Union soldiers set fire to Alexandria. The blaze destroyed most of the town — homes, churches, businesses, the courthouse — leaving only a few structures standing. The burning came at the end of the failed Red River Campaign, after Union forces were defeated at Mansfield and Pleasant Hill. Retreating downriver, they found the Red River too low for their gunboats. Colonel Joseph Bailey engineered a temporary wing dam near Forts Randolph and Buhlow to raise the water level. The boats escaped. The town didn't. Almost nothing in downtown Alexandria predates 1864.

Infrastructure
The Red River's Rapids: How Geography Made a City

Alexandria exists because the Red River has rapids here. The rock formations that gave Rapides Parish its French name forced travelers and traders to stop, portage, and resupply — creating a natural marketplace at the geographic center of Louisiana. The town incorporated in 1818, grew as a river port and crossroads, and never lost that strategic position. Interstate 49 now follows the same north-south corridor the Caddo and French traders used. Alexandria's centrality made it the staging ground for the Louisiana Maneuvers and keeps it the hub for the surrounding agricultural and timber parishes.

The Red River's Rapids: How Geography Made a City

Tours

4 tours from Alexandria
Red River Civil War Trail
The Civil War
Red River Civil War Trail

The 1864 Red River Campaign is the reason Alexandria has almost no antebellum buildings and the reason it has a national cemetery. Lt. Col. Joseph Bailey dammed the Red to float Porter's grounded gunboats over the rapids; Banks's retreating army torched the town. Alexandria National Cemetery, established 1862, is one of the original fourteen. Camp Beauregard later staged the 1940–41 Louisiana Maneuvers — Eisenhower, Patton, and Bradley running roughly 400,000 troops across the same flatlands. The army never really left.

3–4 hours25 miles4 stops
Avoyelles Heritage Drive
Louisiana History
Avoyelles Heritage Drive

Avoyelles Parish is Tunica-Biloxi country, and the drive moves through 2,000 years of continuous occupation. The Marksville mounds, built between 100 BC and 400 AD, are a National Historic Landmark on ancestral ground the tribe still governs — the Paragon Casino and tribal museum sit on the same land, funded by the sovereignty the federal government finally recognized in 1981. The Hypolite Bordelon House, a French Creole raised cottage built around 1800, marks the later French settlement layer. Fort DeRussy was captured and destroyed twice in the 1864 Red River Campaign. The mounds outlasted both empires.

Half day60 miles3 stops
Downtown Alexandria Cultural Walk
Arts & Literary
Downtown Alexandria Cultural Walk

Almost nothing downtown predates May 1864, when Nathaniel Banks's retreating Union army burned twenty-two blocks in an afternoon. What rebuilt itself was a railroad and timber town — and the walk reads as that second city. The Hotel Bentley went up in 1907 on lumber-baron money; the Rapides Parish Courthouse, a seven-story Art Deco slab finished in 1940 for $588,825, is still the tallest thing on the skyline. River Oaks Square fills a donated 1899 home with 25 working studios. The fire is the gap the rest of the block fills.

2 hours1.5 miles4 stops
Kisatchie Pine Hills Loop
Wild Places
Kisatchie Pine Hills Loop

Kisatchie is the only national forest in Louisiana, and the Pine Hills are the only place in the state where the ground actually rises — sandstone outcrops the rest of the coastal plain doesn't have. The Longleaf Vista loop crosses 1.5 miles of restored longleaf pine, the species that once covered 90 million acres of the South and was logged down to less than three percent. The Caroline Dormon Trail runs 10.5 miles through the forest she lobbied Washington to create in 1930 — the first woman forester hired by the U.S. Forest Service. Her work is the trail.

Half day40 miles4 stops

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Editorial content compiled with AI assistance. Place details verified against public records.