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New Orleans
About Louisiana

New Orleans

Crescent City · Louisiana

Long before it had a French name, this place had a purpose.

The Chitimacha, Choctaw, and Houma peoples called it Bulbancha — Place of Many Languages. For thousands of years, the crescent of high ground where Bayou St. John nearly touches the Mississippi River was a trading crossroads. Dugout canoes carried goods across a short portage between the bayou and the river, connecting the Gulf Coast to the interior of the continent. Every nation in the region knew the route.

In 1718, Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville chose this exact spot to found a French colonial outpost. He didn't discover the portage — the native peoples who traded here showed it to him. The city exists because of that portage. It was the most strategic shortcut on the continent: whoever controlled it controlled traffic between the Gulf of Mexico and the Mississippi River valley.

The French built the city. The Spanish rebuilt it after two fires destroyed the French Quarter. The Africans — enslaved and free — created its music, its food, and its spiritual traditions in Congo Square. The Americans flooded in after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, building their own city uptown because the Creoles wouldn't have them in the Quarter.

Every group that arrived added a layer. The Sicilians brought the muffuletta. The Vietnamese transformed the East Bank. The Irish dug the canals and died by the thousands doing it. The Germans settled upriver and fed the city. The free people of color built Tremé into the oldest African American neighborhood in the country.

New Orleans has been underwater, on fire, under four flags, occupied by a foreign army, and flattened by hurricanes. It keeps getting back up. The joy you feel here — the brass bands, the second lines, the all-night music, the three-hour lunches — isn't hedonism. It's a survival philosophy forged by catastrophe. You celebrate because tomorrow the river might rise.

About New Orleans · Portage